Having visited the popular Loop restaurant The Dearborn several times, this writer can speak of the excellent food (including the award-winning fish ’n chips). However, this place also has a very inviting atmosphere, courtesy of sisters/co-owners Amy and Clodagh Lawless.
Amy, a member of the LGBTQ+ community, has been involved in the restaurant arena for decades, going back to her native Ireland. After moving to the United States in the late ‘90s (on a rowing scholarship), the Lawless family followed suit and eventually settled in Chicago. Amy has been an ardent supporter of the LGBTQ+ community and, in 2018, she received the LGBTQ+ Outstanding Service in Business Award presented by Illinois State Treasurer Mike Frerichs.
NOTE: This conversation was edited for clarity and length.
Windy City Times: First of all, I’ve interviewed a lot of people in my life—but never someone who went to school on a rowing scholarship.
Amy Lawless: Yeah! I rowed in Ireland from 16 to 20. Then I got a rowing scholarship to the University of Massachusetts-Amherst and then transferred to Boston University.
Women’s rowing in the States turned Division I in 1996 and I came out here in 1998. But there are still no D-I rowing programs for men.
WCT: That’s interesting, because you always hear about the Ivy League schools’ rowing teams.
Lawless: They have their own conference competitions, but there are no Division I rowing championships for men.
WCT: So how long have you been out here in Chicago?
Lawless: So, my dad made the decision to move to the States. I joke that my dad couldn’t live without me so he brought the whole family over, but he’s always wanted to open bars and restaurants, and he’s always wanted to come to the States. He was the eldest of four kids so he had to take care of his parents. My sister was already living out here and my brother visited Chicago many times. After I got my scholarship, my dad figured it was a good time to move, so he sold his business in Galway. He bought an Irish bar in Wrigleyville—[the now-shuttered] The Irish Oak, which my sister Clodagh and my brother Billy ran for him. My dad thought he would open an Irish bar in Boston, but there were so many; there aren’t as many here.
When I graduated in 2002, I came here and worked in the family business—and I’ve stayed here. We sold The Irish Oak in 2009 and worked for The Gage, which Billy opened, for seven years. Clodagh and I then opened The Dearborn in 2016. We just had our eight-year anniversary.
WCT: It’s amazing how time flies.
Lawless: I know! I remember the first time you came in and that was shortly after we opened.
WCT: What’s the biggest change you’ve noticed about The Dearborn over the years?
Lawless: I feel that the area has changed and, as a result, our footprint has changed. The office environment has changed [in the wake of COVID]. But I think the biggest change is the growth of our business. And I’ve changed as a business leader. I feel like I came into this blindfolded; you pretend you know what you’re doing and, all of a sudden, you’re a business owner.
But regarding the change in our footprint, we’ve also been fortunate enough to have a regular following for our lunch and dinner.
WCT: You also have a lot of political bigwigs who like to dine there. I’ve seen a few over the years.
Lawless: Yeah—they do. I think it helps to be so close to City Hall and the Daley Center. We take care of everyone, including our politicians—but I think there’s also something to be said for being involved with local organizations. It’s a very positive thing, overall.
WCT: And speaking of organizations, you have supported many LGBTQ+ groups. Tell me why that’s important to you.
Lawless: As a lesbian in my position, it’s important to give back. That’s the way I was raised and I’m fortunate to be in the position to give back to our community. The organizations have been very, very helpful to me and my family—like Howard Brown Health, for example; my wife and I went through Howard Brown in order to have children. So during June, The Dearborn is doing a Pride cocktail—this year, it’s the Rainbow Drop—and a portion of the sales will go to Howard Brown.
And there are other organizations, like [the South Side, Black- and trans-led group] Brave Space Alliance. My friend Channyn Lynne Parker is the CEO there, and she’s just a wonderful person, and it’s a wonderful organization that she runs.
Right now, I feel that the LGBTQ+ community needs as much support as possible. We’re in some scary times, so any support that any one can give will be appreciated.
WCT: You’ve alluded to this subject already but, for you, what is it like to be part of the queer community in today’s America?
Lawless: I think it’s an honor. I’m almost 47 and I think about when I came out at 23 and looked up to my gay icons and business leaders. I’m very, very proud to be part of the community.
WCT: And LGBTQ+ people are going through so much—not necessarily in this state, but there are others.
Lawless: We don’t know what’s going to happen in November [with the presidential election] but we’re all scared. They’re knocking on the door to take our rights away, and I think that’s terrible. We’ve come so far, but this could all be taken away with this election. It’s a scary time right now. In a lot of ways, I’ve never felt so much hate even though things are okay in our state.
WCT: So are you optimistic or pessimistic about the future?
Lawless: Oh, I’m optimistic. I think we’re gaining traction and we’re a very, very strong community. You have to stay optimistic. We’ve come a long way.
WCT: What does Pride mean to you?
Lawless: It means to live as one’s true self. I think it means joy and celebrating who we are. My daughter said, “Pride is in our house every day of the year” and I said, “That’s right.”
WCT: So now I want you to be a spokesperson and tell me what makes your restaurant unique.
Lawless: I think our assets include our genuine hospitality. I think, from day one, we honed in on providing great hospitality and, hopefully, being a great place to work. We’ve been open eight years and we have such a loyal staff. My sister and I are so hands-on and we believe in creating great relationships with our customers. I think a woman- and LGBTQ-owned establishment is unique itself in this industry. I hate the term “VIP” because I think everyone has that status, and that’s what I tell my staff. And, of course, we have phenomenal food and drink.
To find out more about The Dearborn, visit this link.