Windy City Media Group Frontpage News

THE VOICE OF CHICAGO'S GAY, LESBIAN, BI, TRANS AND QUEER COMMUNITY SINCE 1985

home search facebook twitter join
Gay News Sponsor Windy City Times 2021-09-01
DOWNLOAD ISSUE
Donate

Sponsor
Sponsor

  WINDY CITY TIMES

SAVOR Logan Square restaurant Lardon
by Andrew Davis
2021-09-16

This article shared 853 times since Thu Sep 16, 2021
facebook twitter pin it google +1 reddit email


As you might guess from its name, Lardon (2200 N. California Ave..; www.lardonchicago.com/&; takes meat very seriously.

Named after a small piece of pork fat or fatty bacon, the Logan Square spot is a carnivore's paradise, from decorative porcine artwork to the curing room (which had 600 pounds of meat the day my dining companion and I visited) to, of course, a lot of the menu items.

Lardon—which opened in July and has quickly become popular for its deli and lunchtime offerings—recently added weekend dinner service that is available Fridays through Sundays from 5:30 to 10 p.m. Chef Chris Thompson's knowledge and expertise of coastal Mediterranean cooking shines in new dinner dishes designed to complement the spot's Old World-based foundation of cured meats.

Owner Steve Lewis—who refers to Lardon as a salumeria (a food producer and retail store that produces salumi and other food products)— said the restaurant is a neighborhood spot, and a family-friendly one at that. "We do sandwiches, salads and charcuterie boards during the day, and our lunch menu goes from 11 a.m.-4 p.m. From 4 to 7 we have our boards and wine lists, and then there's the weekend bistro. "

And it's that bistro that's the focus of the review portion of this piece. My dining companion and I started the best possible way at Lardon—with the Chef's Board, a charcuterie (prepared meat)-and-cheese combination that includes meats such as finocchiona (a variety of Italian salami), the kicky nduja spread and Spanish chorizo secco with cheeses such as Humboldt Fog (a mold-ripened goat-milk cheese with edible ash), Prairie Breeze Cheddar and Red Rock (cave-aged cheddar intentionally streaked with blue mold). Those alone would be great, but there are additions including honeycomb, breads, mustard and olives—although I purposefully passed on the latter, as I'm not a fan.

For the entree, my friend had one of the specials—braised beef—while I had the steak frites. Chicago is known, among other things, for its meats, and Thompson (and Lardon) treated this meat well, resulting in one of the better steaks I've had in this city. Of course, the herb butter didn't hurt. My friend ate her entire plate of beef, at times barely looking up from her plate. That's enjoyment.

Some of the other offerings include crispy veal sweetbreads, mussels aux Provencal, crispy duck leg confit and a very sizable wood-grilled pork chop.

However, despite its meat-centric look, there are vegan/vegetarian dishes offered—and they're delicious. My friend absolutely adored the Green Monster—a hefty concoction that contained broccolini, zucchini, avocado, shishito peppers, pistachio, crispy farro and tarragon—with green goddess dressing. (There are also arugula and strawberry as well as a dish with carrots and ancient grains.) And although it contained meat, my frisee-and-lardon salad was unquestionably filled with bold flavors, thanks to a little saltiness and bitterness from the main stars of the dish that the richness of the egg undercut.

Desserts have become more prominent at Lardon, thanks to a new pastry chef—and the peach-and-blueberry crumble my friend tried was apparently supremely delightful (with another clean plate). However, Lardon also sells pie from nearby Bang Bang Pie—and the apple-cider item I had (spiced apple cider cheesecake with cider gelee and a graham-cracker crust) was absolutely sinful.

Drinks are also pretty compelling. I thoroughly enjoyed The Garden Party—a tasty melange oaf gin, yellow chartreuse, basil eau de vie, lemon and tonic. However, I discovered that the bartender is just as talented when it comes to mocktails; the basil/citrus item I had (which had a certainly gustatory resemblance to The Garden Party) was just as good.

Incidentally, Lardon adds to the vibe by playing vinyl records of the employees' choosing. The Donna Summer album had me wishing for a dance floor, but guests may hear everything from The Clash to The Rolling Stones to Al Green.

By the way, Lardon is expanding, according to Lewis. He told Windy City Times that, by the end of the year, there will be a gastropub named Union as well as a cocktail bar called Meadowlark. Both will be part of an area that includes Lardon, and they will have their own culinary and drink offerings. (However, patrons won't be able to walk from one to the other through the interior.)

Lardon, Union and Meadowlark: They sound like a full evening's worth of fun.

—COVID protocols: Patrons wear masks when not eating and drinking. Lardon staffers also wear masks, and sanitizer is provided at the front desk.

—Note: Lardon doesn't deliver. However, the travel there is definitely worth it.

Note: This visit was arranged.


This article shared 853 times since Thu Sep 16, 2021
facebook twitter pin it google +1 reddit email

  ARTICLES YOU MIGHT LIKE

Gay News

SAVOR Brunch at Cobblestone 2021-10-15
- Recently, there have been a few restaurants I've visited multiple times—if for no other reason than to see if there is consistency in the quality (especially, if good) or some sort of improvement (if the food ...


Gay News

Kit Kat Lounge hosting Kamayan feast Oct. 24 2021-10-15
- Kit Kat Lounge & Supper Club, 3700 N. Halsted St., in honor of Filipino American History Month, will host a special "diva-infused" Kamayan feast featuring Chef Jordan Andino on Sunday, Oct. 24. Andino is the creative ...


Gay News

SAVOR Adorn Bar & Restaurant, take two 2021-10-09
- The last time I stopped by Adorn Bar & Restaurant—in the Four Seasons Hotel, 120 E. Delaware St. (which was also the first time I went there)—I encountered one of the most innovative brunch menus ever, ...


Gay News

Latin Restaurant Weeks taking place in Chicago Oct. 4-18 2021-09-28
- National Hispanic Heritage Month takes place Sept. 15-Oct. 15, recognizing the many contributions of Hispanic Americans. As an effort to acknowledge the successful influences and cultures of Hispanic Americans, Latin Restaurant Weeks, LLC, will host its ...


Gay News

SAVOR Brunch at Wood 2021-09-28
- "Morning Wood" has returned. This provocative name was given to the brunch service at Boystown/Northalsted restaurant Wood, 3335 N. Halsted St., and it drew lots of people before the COVID pandemic changed the world. However, like ...


Gay News

SAVOR Funkenhausen 2021-09-25
- When it comes to fusion, West Town spot Funkenhausen, 1709 W. Chicago Ave., might be one of the more unusual restaurants. The cuisine here is a mixture of German ...


Gay News

NGLCC, Grubhub team to help LGBTQA-owned restaurants 2021-09-25
- The country's vulnerable LGBTQ+-owned restaurants and bars serving food will find help this fall, courtesy of a partnership formed by the National LGBT Chamber of Commerce (NGLCC) and Grubhub. These small business owners have been among ...


Gay News

SAVOR Sunny Bowls 2021-09-11
- Looking for a comforting, healthful option for lunch? Then look no further than Sunny Bowls: Souper Food (theMart, #201.; https://sunnybowls.com/), which specializes in various soups? Part of the food court at theMART (which some also call ...


Gay News

SAVOR The Press Room 2021-08-29
- At The Press Room (1134 W. Washington Blvd..; https://www.pressroomchicago.com/), a lot of patrons may encounter the unexpected. The West Loop restaurant—which is only open Wednesday through Sunday evenings—has undergone quite ...


Gay News

Andersonville Chamber of Commerce to present Andersonville Homecoming 2021-08-26
--From a press release - CHICAGO (August 26, 2021) — The Andersonville Chamber of Commerce (ACC) is pleased to announce Andersonville Homecoming, a three-night, two-day outdoor festival featuring live entertainment, local artisans and merchants, food ...


Gay News

COVID FDA grants full approval to Pfizer/BioNTech vaccine 2021-08-23
- On Aug. 23, the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA granted full approval to the Pfizer/BioNTech COVID-19 vaccine for people age 16 and older, media outlets reported. This is the first coronavirus vaccine approved by the ...


Gay News

SAVOR South Branch Tavern & Grille 2021-08-19
- Before taking a bite of anything at South Branch Tavern & Grille (100 S. Wacker Dr.; https://www.southbranchchicago.com/), patrons are likely to be impressed. The reason lies in the picturesque views surrounding the spot. Ensconced near some ...


Gay News

SAVOR Britches and brunch at The Dearborn 2021-08-15
- I've had the pleasure of dining at The Dearborn (145 N. Dearborn St.; https://www.thedearborntavern.com/) several times—but it's always been a weekday outing. Recently, I met a friend for Sunday brunch. The results were both expected ...


Gay News

SAVOR Smashburger 2021-08-12
- With hundreds of fast-food restaurants throughout Chicago, it might seem like the last thing the city needs is another burger spot However, the Denver-based chain Smashburger is in the Windy City—at a pretty busy location, near ...


Gay News

SAVOR Cobblestone Restaurant 2021-08-01
- It's a case of "better late than never" for Cobblestone (4337 N. Lincoln St.; https://cobblestone-chicago.com/). After selling his Bohemian House restaurant in River North, Cobblestone Restaurant owner Dr. Markus Chwajol—who ...


 



Copyright © 2021 Windy City Media Group. All rights reserved.
Reprint by permission only. PDFs for back issues are downloadable from
our online archives. Single copies of back issues in print form are
available for $4 per issue, older than one month for $6 if available,
by check to the mailing address listed below.

Return postage must accompany all manuscripts, drawings, and
photographs submitted if they are to be returned, and no
responsibility may be assumed for unsolicited materials.
All rights to letters, art and photos sent to Nightspots
(Chicago GLBT Nightlife News) and Windy City Times (a Chicago
Gay and Lesbian News and Feature Publication) will be treated
as unconditionally assigned for publication purposes and as such,
subject to editing and comment. The opinions expressed by the
columnists, cartoonists, letter writers, and commentators are
their own and do not necessarily reflect the position of Nightspots
(Chicago GLBT Nightlife News) and Windy City Times (a Chicago Gay,
Lesbian, Bisexual and Transegender News and Feature Publication).

The appearance of a name, image or photo of a person or group in
Nightspots (Chicago GLBT Nightlife News) and Windy City Times
(a Chicago Gay, Lesbian, Bisexual and Transgender News and Feature
Publication) does not indicate the sexual orientation of such
individuals or groups. While we encourage readers to support the
advertisers who make this newspaper possible, Nightspots (Chicago
GLBT Nightlife News) and Windy City Times (a Chicago Gay, Lesbian
News and Feature Publication) cannot accept responsibility for
any advertising claims or promotions.

 
 

TRENDINGBREAKINGPHOTOS







Sponsor
Sponsor


 

Sponsor


Donate


About WCMG      Contact Us      Online Front  Page      Windy City  Times      Nightspots      OUT! Guide     
Identity      BLACKlines      En La Vida      Archives      Advanced Search     
Windy City Queercast      Queercast Archives     
Press  Releases      Join WCMG  Email List      Email Blast      Blogs     
Upcoming Events      Todays Events      Ongoing Events      Bar Guide      Community Groups      In Memoriam      Outguide Categories      Outguide Advertisers      Search Outguide      Travel      Dining Out      Privacy Policy     

Windy City Media Group publishes Windy City Times,
The Bi-Weekly Voice of the Gay, Lesbian, Bisexual and Trans Community.
5315 N. Clark St. #192, Chicago, IL 60640-2113 • PH (773) 871-7610 • FAX (773) 871-7609.