When you think of a restaurant row, you think of Randolph, West of Halsted, or Division, between Leavitt and Ashland. But, West Touhy Avenue?
OK, I may be overstating things a bit, but this unassuming, humble stretch offers surprising foodie delights, where one would never think of looking, and those are usually the best kinds. Housed in a section of old, mismatched strip malls, most folks would just drive by on their way to the nearby Lincolnwood Town Center Mall (you can still get locals to talk about how Vanna White was there for the opening, and so many people showed up, there was a crush at the top of the escalators with injuries), or a brand new Lowes home improvement store. High culture, this ain’t.
Located at the intersections of Touhy and Crawford Avenues (Crawford is the suburban name for Pulaski Avenue, at 4000 West), this small oasis offers an around-the-world selection of good eats. Dong-A Foods sells a variety of Asian goods, and Poochie’s offers good old American favorites, like cheeseburgers and hot dogs with all the fixings. If you’ve never been to one of the outlets for this North Shore establishment, you’ll be glad you ventured out to find it.
Right on the corner of Touhy and Crawford, however, is Renga-Tei, in a space that years ago housed Koto Restaurant. Both of these Japanese restaurants have established loyal followings, but unlike its predecessor, Renga-Tei offers a much more extensive menu, which obviously pleases many of the diners conversing in Japanese.
The meal begins with a traditional hot washcloth, followed by complimentary earthy green tea, which, along with the bright, comfortable interior of booths and tables, relaxes you instantly. Get a table away from the door, however, because folks pile in all night long, and the small waiting area can get full fast. Reservations are taken, and I would recommend them Thursday through Sunday. Renga-Tei is closed on Tuesdays. Some time back, the owners expanded into the storefront next door, and the space is neatly divided with screens.
If the wait is too long, have a seat at the blond-wood sushi bar in the front room, where you can also get glimpses of the bustle in the busy kitchen. Wherever you sit, you will be well taken care of.
Even when packed, the service is unswervingly patient and exceedingly polite. It is impossible to leave the restaurant without being thanked several times, and it is also impossible to leave without being thoroughly sated. Portions are ample, and you get plenty for your money.
Begin with an appetizer, divided in hot and cold sections. You can try grilled chicken skewers, asparagus and beef roll ups, or pork and wassail filled dumplings, shumai, or opt for the cold, traditional spinach with sesame seeds, gomae.
There is also a small selection of salads, and a large selection of sushi and sashimi.
We began with a tekka maki (tuna) and oshinko maki (pickled radish of a neon yellow color), which the waitress said was her favorite. We would have gotten more, but our meals came with soup and salad. Many diners, however, were chowing down on huge portions of tempura, which we’ll be sure to sample next time.
The soup is traditional miso, followed by a small green salad topped with a tasty but overabundant soy-based dressing. Entrees include familiar teriyakis and sukiyakis, as well as less well-known fare. Check the specials board at the front, as well as the back cover of your menu for even more choices.
The salmon teriyaki is grilled and then covered with the sweet, thick teriyaki sauce, several chilled broccoli florets and a selection of sautéed green peppers, mushrooms, and onions are served alongside. If you find it difficult to soak up the teriyaki sauce into your rice, in a separate bowl, instead order the teriyaki don. The chicken teriyaki don is served atop a large bowl of rice, with all the sauce soaking right in. You don’t get the veggies of the regular teriyaki dinner, but you do get pickled veggies on the side.
If you are a fan of noodles, the traditional soba and udon wheat and buckwheat varieties are available. A large portion can be ordered in a variety of ways, with your choice of veggies or meats. And, if you are a meat eater, by all means get the tangy sukiyaki, served in a black cast-iron pan. Sweet, sour, and delectable, the sliced beef and cabbage is light but rich and filling.
Finish your meal off with lime cheesecake, red bean or green tea ice cream, or a sticky rice flour mochi, much better than the ones you can pick up in the freezer section at Trader Joe’s.