Over time, the strip that makes up Roscoe Village has quietly become a satisfying and unfussy dining destination. The short stretch of Roscoe from Damen west to about Rockwell (almost at Western) has a variety of reasonably priced and homey spots.
Start exploring at Kitsch’n. What began as a small one-roomed spot now has a back room, with a patio for outdoor summer dining, complete with tiki hut bar. The walls are covered with posters and signs from (mostly) the ’70s, and the ’50s dinette tables make for a comfortable hodge podge. Many tables are outfitted with old chrome toasters, which hold napkins and silverware.
Weekends can be tricky when both rooms fill up fast for brunch, but many of the breakfast offerings are available during the week, even at lunch. Green Eggs and ham is popular (the green is pesto), as are unhealthy delights like chocolate chip pancakes, and even oatmeal, served in a large, deep bowl, with pockets of cinnamon and brown sugar. And who doesn’t like a tower of French toast? Really indulge with a side of applewood smoked bacon or andouille chicken sausage.
Lunch items include an array of sandwiches, and some salads, as well as an option served out of a lunchbox, and with a Hostess product. Why not?
Dinner specials are a bit more ambitious, but never get too fancy, and usually the crowd thins out at night. That’s when you can get a Tang martini (yes, you read that right). The novelty of it is better than the flavor. The Fried Chicken and Mac and Cheese are both OK, if unmemorable.
A brand new Kitsch’n will open soon in the old Montgomery Ward’s building, currently being converted into condos. Let’s hope it doesn’t lose its atmosphere. Please, no Kitsch’ns in every mall in America.
Just a few doors down is Costello’s Sandwiches, right next to Brett’s. The two restaurants couldn’t be more different, but they each are very good at what they do.
Costello’s is a sort of Potbelly’s, but Potbelly’s before it went national. The choices are big, the waits are not, and in the summer a few lucky diners can sit outside under trees.
Brett’s is much more ambitious (as are its prices). The simple, comfortable storefront is popular for both weekend brunch and dinner. The mostly American food doesn’t go too far, but offers more satisfying fare than what some passersby expect.
If you need a break from all that eating, rest up in Starbucks. I know Starbucks is nothing special in itself, but this particular establishment is housed in a former restaurant, which even left a couple of comfy maroon chairs on chrome bases. There’s even a counter with stools.
OK, reenergized and maybe hungry again, stop by Victory’s Banner. Hopefully you took a day off and it’s morning now, so you can get there early, and avoid the lines for brunch. The menu is pretty big, but look closely, and you’ll discover no meat. It’s all very Hare Krishna, but that doesn’t become too obtrusive.
Also down that way, is Hot Doug’s. Again, expect a line at lunch. There are less than a dozen tables here, filled with diners chowing down on every type of sausage even the most devoted carnivores could crave. Go for a brat or get more ambitious. Weekly specials feature meats you probably didn’t even know were eaten by man. Smoked rattlesnake, anyone?
Almost red faced, I have to say the veggie dog isn’t bad, either. And, neither are those hand-cut French fries (which really don’t need a cheese topping, even if it is tasty).
Fridays and Saturdays, you can order duck fries. Yep, French fries cooked in duck fat, just as God intended. The crispiness is heaven sent. The most expensive sausage is $7.50, but you can get a lot cheaper.
Still hungry, or just ready to plan for another time? There are several Italian options, a not bad Guatamalan restaurant, a coffeehouse, and a Thai spot, almost next to an old-fashioned bakery. In between, you can shop at vintage storefronts, selling new-age books, vintage clothes, and more.
There’s also a big Village Thrift that comes with its own parking lot. Just don’t park there while you are eating nearby, or your car may go bye-bye.