Kevin Schulz, the executive chef at Fulton’s on the River for about a year, told me that this is his first restaurant in this position. (He has worked at places such as Tramonto’s Steak & Seafood in Wheeling and Zealous in Chicago.) How fortunate this restaurant’s diners are.
Of course, with the restaurant being on the river, the views are spectacular—more so during the summer, when patrons can sit outside. However, the interior was pretty warm and inviting, with the hospitality of the staff a high note. (I noticed that this was true regarding the other diners there—even those who weren’t wearing the dressiest of clothes.)
Dinner started with oyster on the half shell, topped with steak tartar and caviar. I’m, admittedly, not the biggest fan of oysters (thanks in part to memories of my father downing them with Tabasco), but this preparation won me over. The restaurant paired the shellfish with Gruet sparkling wine, which has a flavor that worked perfectly with the food.
Fulton’s also has an interesting concept: meat flights. Much like you have flights of tequila, this restaurant has three-cut offerings that will definitely appeal to the carnivore in you. On the night my dining companion and I were there, the flight included four-ounce offerings included grilled veal ribeye, braised beef shortrib and sauteed Wagyu flat iron steak. My favorite had to be the flavorful shortrib, which is braised in a stock of mushrooms, tarragon, veal stock and red wine—making it extremely tender as well. Knowing that diet and environment can affect how meat tastes, Schulz has learned how to select the correct cuts. The sides—orange squash puree, spinach croquettes, roasted mushrooms and shoestring potatoes—again, paired well with the meat dishes; this is especially true of the potatoes, which definitely enhanced the Wagyu. (Note: The flights change periodically, so what you get may not be the same as the items described here.)
However, it was the dessert that provided the biggest punch—at least for my dining companion. The banana cream pie (complete with a crust made of crushed Nutter Butters) literally brought a tear to his eye, and had him contemplating the purchase of an entire pie in the future. I had to concur about that dessert, although I didn’t fare as well with the key lime pie (possibly because I took it home and had it later).
Overall, though, I highly recommend Fulton’s for that special occasion. (The cavernous rooms can accommodate hundreds of people for receptions, etc.) You won’t be disappointed.
Fulton’s on the River is at 315 N. LaSalle St.; see www.fultonsontheriver.com.