I’m always on the hunt for new brunch spots to add to my rotation, so I was happy to (re) discover Fork a few weeks ago. The large restaurant at the corner of Lincoln Avenue and Wilson Avenue in Lincoln Square was formerly known as Fiddlehead. Last year, it underwent a makeover, got a new chef and a revamped menu, and re-emerged as Fork.
Thanks to exposed brick, plump leather sofas, comfy booths and a glass-enclosed fireplace in the center, the spacious restaurant manages to feel warm and cozy. Also, because of its large size and seating capacity, Fork is one place where you may not have to wait until lunchtime to eat brunch.
The brunch menu has a mix of reliable staples like classic eggs Benedict with smoked ham and Belgian waffles, and some unique dishes like duck confit hash and truffled eggs. Before I even had a mimosa in hand, I knew I’d be ordering the truffled eggs, a dish that promised to combine several of my favorite foods: shitake mushrooms, truffle goat cheese, arugula and puff pastry. It was good, but even with all of those strong flavors it didn’t have the quite punch I was expecting.
If you’re not quite ready for puff pastry and truffle in the morning, try one of the scrambles, which are served sizzling hot in tiny cast iron pans. You can’t go wrong with the simple ham and cheese scramble. Three-year aged Hook’s cheddar and “Cure 81” ham give the basic dish a little boost. If you’re feeling more adventurous, there’ a scramble with house-made sausage, mushrooms, spinach and onions and another with chorizo, jalapeños, queso fresco and cilantro.
On the lunch side of the menu, you’ll find a smattering of some savory staples like mac and cheese with English white cheddar and a half-pound burger on a brioche bun as well as a few inventive takes on comfort foods like a “Reuben” made with pork belly and Jarlsberg cheese instead of corned beef and Swiss. Normally, I’m all about the eggs, but my favorite brunch item at Fork was actually among the lunch offerings. The turkey and bacon panini was the one thing I couldn’t get enough of. Thin slices of turkey and juicy strips of bacon are smothered in melted Fontina cheese and pressed between two slices of crisp grilled country bread. A tasty basil mayonnaise brings the whole scrumptious sandwich together.
For those days when you need a seriously hearty brunch (perhaps to undo damages from the night before), Fork’s brisket might be just the cure for you. The tender meat is slathered in a sweet and tangy root beer BBQ sauce and piled high with fried onion strings. Somewhere underneath the monstrosity are two slices of Texas toast to mop up the BBQ sauce. This is an entrée you can definitely sink your teeth into, and one that quickly dispels any illusions that brunch is always a dainty affair focused on quiche and scones.
Fork is located at 4600 N. Lincoln Ave.; call 773-751-1500 or visit www.forkchicago.net/.
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