• Five-cheesemacandcheesewithwatercresssalad
  • SouschefTimothyMichaelwithsmokedpig-color
There’s a movie on HBO premiering this month called “Me @ the Zoo.” This was pretty much my feeling after dining at Frontier (www.thefrontierchicago.com; 1072 N. Milwaukee Ave.), where patrons really do feel like they’re on the frontier—down to the stuffed bear and antler chandeliers in the restaurant.

Interestingly, the menu is divided into “snacks,” “harvested,” “hunted” and “fished.” The first category has items such as deviled eggs, house pickles, peppadew peppers and cheese bites. Vegetarians will fare OK with the “harvested” portion of the menu; offerings include gazpacho, beet carpaccio, okra and white-bean hummus.

However, the more exotic items are those geared toward carnivores. Executive Chef Brian Jupiter and Sous Chef Timothy Michael have concocted an unbelievable mix of meat dishes. Under “hunted” there is everything from duck tacos and sliders to a venison cheesesteak (delicious) to smoked rabbit tostada to llama meatballs. Under “fished,” patrons can snack on gator ribs with Georgia peach BBQ sauce (a winning combination), escargot, ahi tuna sandwich and smoked trout, among other items.

Also, if people are bringing large contingents, people can order whole smoked animals—including gators. Just be sure to order several days in advance. (When asked if there is anything he would not cook, Michael said without hesitation, “horse.”)