DISH: SAVOR South Water Kitchen

Often when people are done with their workdays in the Loop, they speed home, making that area a virtual ghost town. However, South Water Kitchen (225 N. Wabash Ave.; southwaterkitchen.com), overall, makes a compelling case for staying in that area just a little longer—or for out-of-town visitors to swing by and say hello.

First, the space is deceptive—in a good way. Upon walking in, you’re greeted by a bar (and, hopefully, a bartender as friendly as the one my friend and I had). There is an accompanying tavern menu that’s pretty impressive; items include a charcuterie plate, pulled-pork sliders, deviled eggs, candied bacon popcorn and an absolutely scrumptious strawberry flatbread (strawberries, duck confit, ricotta cheese and balsamic glaze), among others. The cocktails—a Moscow Mule and a Swedish Seed—garnered mixed reviews, although the bartender was quick to accommodate my friend, who was a bit dissatisfied with her first drink.

The more informal area (dotted with a couple large TV screens) has several tables in addition to the bar. Then, curiously, there’s a more formal area (for a large group, one presumes) beyond the casual space—and then down the stairs is another, larger formal lot. Somehow, it seems to work—although I could see a raucous crowd in the casual area making things a tad uncomfortable for those in the upper formal space.

Our server was very attentive—but she also made my friend a little nervous. (This is the first time that’s happened upon profiling/reviewing a restaurant.) She was extremely nice, but was a bit careless handling things (dropping a tray of silverware; almost dropping glassware) and even tripped over my friend’s chair. I’m assuming (hoping?) she was just starting, and that this one night was an aberration.

However, this space definitely has a saving grace—and his name is Chef Roger Waysok. Waysok, an extremely affable fellow, discussed everything from cooking for his family to who he thinks is the greatest guitarist of all time (Jimi Hendrix, although Eric Clapton is a close second). (One of Waysok’s off-work passions is playing the guitar, and his wife and older child play instruments as well.)

And Waysok is as talented as he is gregarious. In addition to the aforementioned flatbread (which warrants a return trip alone), he prepared seared scallops (with green pea and bacon hash along with a carrot-ginger puree) and papardelle pasta (with braised lamb, spring vegetables, ricotta cheese and fresh mint). I’m not blowing smoke here, but the pasta dish is one of the best items I’ve had so far this year at any restaurant—and certainly is the best lamb-themed dish I’ve tried, ever.

When asked what the hallmark of his dishes is, Waysok said “simplicity.” Sometimes simplicity is good—especially if it’s accomplished as well as he does it.

Additional gallery of photos by Andrew Davis and from Kimpton Hotels by David Phelps here: windycitytimes.com/gay/lesbian/news/photospreadthumbs.php?APUB=wct&ADATE=2013-06-04&AGALLERY=SWKitchen.