The Clark Street space that once housed In Fine Spirits restaurant and bar (the liquor store by the same name remains in the building next door) has been like a revolving door over the last couple of years. A few weeks after In Fine Spirits unceremoniously shuttered in early 2012, Premise, a mercifully brief failed experiment in bizarre and overpriced cuisine, took over. Next came Brasserie 54, a charming but modern French bistro with a sexy cocktail lounge upstairs. Like Premise before it, Brasserie 54 didn’t have that je ne sais quoi that it takes to win over discerning but loyal Andersonville diners—it closed down within six months of opening.
A week or so ago, Brixton opened in the seemingly doomed space. No doubt the owners, who also reportedly own The Drum and Monkey, are hoping third time truly is the charm. It doesn’t appear that they’ve gone to great lengths to revamp the decor. Brixton has the same dark flooring, low lighting and simple modern aesthetics of its predecessors. They have, however, inexplicably, replaced all normal sized dining tables on the main floor with eight gargantuan booths. They are covered in a subtle masculine plaid fabric that works nicely from a design perspective. But, if you are a party of two or four, your only main floor seating option is one of these gigantic booths (or a stool at the bar), which just feels awkward. And, as the place becomes more crowded, I imagine the lack of seating could become a logistical nightmare.
The guys behind Brixton have chosen to emulate one aspect that I believe made our beloved In Fine Spirits a success: the focus here is indisputably on the cocktails. They’ve got a nice list of craft cocktails that incorporates the stuff of modern mixology that we’ve come to know and love: egg whites, rhubarb bitters, ginger beer, thyme, infused rye, mint, Fresno chiles—you name it. Bottles of wine veer a tad toward the pricy side, but there’s an ample selection of mostly American varietals by the glass that range from $6 to $12. Further evidence that booze is front and center at Brixton is the fact that they have no edible desserts — not a single piece of cake or scoop of gelato in sight. But, if you don’t mind drinking your dessert, you’re all set. They’ve got a hot cocktail made with bourbon and condensed milk, a strangely delicious eggnog-like concoction. It’s topped with an egg white and sugar mixture that coagulates into a sort of “frosting.” Despite my initial skepticism, I thoroughly enjoyed my hot liquid dessert on a cold December night, and I’m pretty sure I’ll be back for a few more before Chicago emerges from its deep freeze.
Now, all of this is not to say that the food is an afterthought at Brixton. There’s a small selection of upscale bar bites like popcorn with bacon powder and chives and peanuts gussied up with sumac and mint. Or, nibble on high-end small plates like mussels and sweetbreads. I particularly enjoyed the crab dip. The creamy mixture is served at room temperature in a tiny mason jar. The best part is the artichoke and pearl onion relish it’s topped with, which provides a tangy acidic contrast to the sweet crab. It’s served with paper-thin olive oil-soaked crostini, which are great for dipping.
You can also get a bona fide meal here. The entree choices are limited and straightforward, but, from what I can tell, expertly prepared. The hanger steak is a worthwhile $25 indulgence (cheap for a nice steak, but expensive for bar food). The steak is prepared in classic “sous vide” style, which means it is essentially boiled in a vacuum-sealed bag until it reaches the minimum temperature safe for human consumption and then it is given a quick sear on each side. Wow! I was expecting an average and possibly tough steak and what I got was one of the most tender and succulent pieces of beef that’s ever melted in my mouth. Flavorful chanterelle mushrooms pair nicely with the hanger steak. And as a finishing touch, bone marrow and brown butter béarnaise are smeared on the plate in what looks at first glance like the world’s smallest scoop of mashed potatoes and gravy. In fact, it’s a delicious and decadent sauce in which to dip a delectable steak.
I also enjoyed the scallops, which are seared to a deep golden brown on the top and smeared with generous portion of rich black truffles. The scallops are served atop a slab of nicely seasoned cauliflower with leeks and parmesan. It’s a tasty dish, if not particularly memorable. The entree portions are on the small side and by and large not served with any sort of starchy sides—good for the waistline, bad for soaking up all of that booze. My recommendation is to order a basket of fries. They are crisp and well seasoned and go perfectly with the hangar steak. Add a big old glass of robust red wine and you’ve got a quintessential hearty winter meal. The aioli that comes with the fries is funky tasting in a bad way. So, for the first time in my life, I opted for ketchup over aioli—a relatively minor misstep in an otherwise thoroughly pleasant meal.
I enjoyed my first experience at Brixton and, as an Andersonville resident, I can see myself visiting again. Whether this newcomer has what it takes to become a go-to neighborhood joint remains to be seen.
The Brixton is located at 5420 N. Clark St.; call 773-961-7358.
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