A meal at Packing House, the latest addition to the West Loop’s Randolph dining district, is kind of like a visit to a quirky children’s clubhouse—complete cartoons displayed on TV screens, a dessert that tastes remarkably like a peanut butter and jelly sandwich and a drink that tastes like a melted Bomb Pop. But, a generous shot of Grey Goose in that cocktail, called the Pear Bear, lets you know this swanky clubhouse is definitely for adults.
More subdued decor—like sleek brown upholstery on booths and chairs and subway tiles behind the bar—lends some sophistication to balance the more youthful elements. There’s also a spacious patio that will be an ideal spot for summer afternoon happy hours and al fresco dinners on warm evenings.
You can begin your meal with a selection of cheeses and charcuterie, or one of several fresh ceviches and crudos made with fish like halibut, snapper and escolar. Or, order up a pan of Parker House rolls with dill butter. The rolls are served fresh and hot and in a miniature cast iron pan. The dill butter is actually more of an oil, but the fresh herbs pair well with the warm bread.
I really enjoyed the burrata salad. The creamy cheese is nestled beneath a scoop of green chickpeas that add a little crunch to the dish and tender morel mushrooms that lend an earthy sweetness. The larger dishes include a selection of pizzas and an array of meat and fish dishes. The entrees all begin with a familiar concept—spaghetti or cheeseburger, for example—but flavorful and high-quality ingredients like aged cheddar, black truffles, preserved lemon and braised artichokes save the dishes from feeling ordinary.
The crab spaghettini is a lovely option for an early summer dinner. It’s almost like a lighter and more upscale version of macaroni and cheese. Preserved lemon combined with Parmesan cheese forms a light cream sauce. There’s lots of tender shredded crabmeat and fresh chives add a bright note to the pasta.
The pizzas are also definitely worth a try. The crust is on the thicker side, doughy on the inside with a crispy top layer. Prosciutto, fig and truffle arugula make for a winning combination of pizza toppings. The sweet figs and thin slices of savory prosciutto are baked into the melted parmesan cheese and a generous helping of arugula, flavored richly with truffle oil, is sprinkled on top.
Dessert at Packing House is just as playful as the decor. House made gelatos can be ordered with an espresso to make an affogato, which ends up tasting like a rich adult version of an ice cream sundae. The salted caramel gelato makes a delicious affogato that tastes like a caramel latte when the gelato melts into the coffee. Also delicious and surprising is a light chocolate cake stuffed with a fluffy peanut butter filling. The cake is soft and bready, with only a hint of chocolate. On the plate are some lightly mashed blackberries. When eaten altogether with the peanut butter filling, it has both the taste and consistency of a really good peanut butter and jelly sandwich. I found the dessert delightful and it was a pleasant ending to a really satisfying meal.
Packing House is at 1113 W. Randolph St.; call 312-929-4787 or visit www.packinghousechicago.com.
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