If you’ve long been a fan of Andersonville’s M. Henry (and who hasn’t?), then there’s a new brunch spot you will definitely want to check out. M. Henry’s former chef, Manny Mejia, recently opened Bryn Mawr Breakfast Club in North Park.
While wait times at Bryn Mawr Breakfast Club haven’t quite reached M. Henry levels, the sunny restaurant seems to be off to a great start. There are some distinct similarities between the two menus—namely killer pancakes and waffles stuffed with fresh fruit and decadent cream sauces made from mascarpone cheese and tangy yogurt. No doubt the offerings will change with the seasons, but right now, look for heavenly concoctions like blackberry and kiwi French toast and cinnamon hot cakes glazed with apricot and dusted with powdered sugar. One of the standouts is the Belgian waffles, topped perfectly with tender cooked peaches and tart raspberries held together with chocolate mousse (dessert under the guise of breakfast).
Not to be outdone by the pancakes and waffles, the savory dishes also shine with unique ingredient combinations. Break up your brunch routine with a pajun pancake, a savory Korean pancake packed with scallions and topped with eggs and pork belly. Bryn Mawr Breakfast Club’s version of chilaquiles does not disappoint. The presentation is elevated a bit with a banana leaf and the proportion of tortillas to salsa is spot on—perfect for sopping up eggs (and hangovers if it was that kind of Saturday night).
Most of the savory options are hearty dishes like skillets packed with chorizo and veggies or sizzling steak and eggs, but the portion sizes are not overwhelming, so go ahead and indulge. Speaking of indulging, the biscuits and gravy are darn good. The biscuits are warm and fluffy, and the creamy sausage gravy is one of the richest I’ve tasted (but not overly rich in a way that makes you wish you hadn’t ordered it in the first place). Incidentally, the gravy tastes just as good poured over the eggs and potatoes that accompany the biscuits.
Like M. Henry, Bryn Mawr Breakfast Club doesn’t sell booze. But, you can start your day with a strong cup of coffee or fresh-squeezed OJ. Mejia’s first solo venture is a bright and cheerful place to spend a leisurely morning. It has a warm, welcoming vibe that will feel familiar to M. Henry devotees. And like its Andersonville counterpart, the toughest decision you’ll have to make at Bryn Mawr Breakfast Club is whether to order a sweet or savory entrée. Sidestep that dilemma by bringing an easygoing breakfast companion and splitting one of each.
Bryn Mawr Breakfast Club is at 3401 W. Bryn Mawr Ave.; call 872-208-7079 or visit www.brynmawrbreakfastclub.net.
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