Dessert platter at The Columbus Tap. Photo by Nikki Hudson

Columbus Tap (200 N. Columbus Dr.; ColumbusTap.com) is a new gastropub at The Fairmont Chicago that just opened in April and that has an unmistakable masculine vibe—one that my dining companion (a female) also picked up on immediately, down to the strong decor and the overwhelmingly male patronage.

Chef Atticus Garant (a chef who exudes an almost elegant air) offers cuisine that is in keeping with that vibe—although the menu really has something for everyone. We started with spice-dusted pork cracklings that were absolutely enormous. (Garant explained that even just a little skin can create these huge items.) Following that, we tried the open-faced toast with rotisserie chicken, bacon, lettuce, tomato and smoked “ranch”—an incredibly scrumptious item.

Another winning dish was called A Run Through the Garden, which consists of spring peas, fava beans, pea tendrils and spring onions. However, we then tackled a couple decidedly non-vegetarian dishes: Tap That Burger (yes, that’s the name) and the fish ‘n’ chips. The burger, with “American Gruyere” and something called “sneaky sauce,” was one of the best I’ve tried recently. The fish ‘n’ chips (with malt-vinegar tartar sauce) was also pretty tasty. (Other entree offerings include whiskey honey ham hocks and the tempting chicken and biscuits.)

Dessert was (literally) a slice of heaven, with items including chocolate cake, sundae (with bacon candy), coffee and donuts, strawberry shortcake and seasonal pie. Hopefully, Garant will take my advice and make a platter of all these sweet treats.

One more thing: It wouldn’t be the Columbus Tap profile without mentioning its drinks. There’s a spectacular selection—including an intriguing ale selection called Une Annee Esquisse that comes across as more of an acquired taste. However, those who want to try various drafts can try a beer flight; either the diner or the Tap’s beverage director can choose.

Big Gay Brunch June 5

The Big Gay Brunch will return to Boiler Room, 2210 N. California Ave., on Sunday, June 5, 1-4 p.m.

DJs Robojojo and Butch Sassidy the Come Dance Kid will entertain, while the hosts will be Lucy Stoole and Imp Queen.

Guests are encouraged to RSVP at Do312 to receive a complimentary PBR and shot of Sauza Hornitos. Entrance is free.

RSVP at do312.com/events/2016/6/5/big-gay-brunch.