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If you’re going to drive 45 minutes to one hour out of downtown Chicago and deal with rush-hour traffic to a restaurant located along a small string of storefronts, that place better be worth the trip and aggravation.

Fortunately, Mesa Urbana (3566 Milwaukee Ave., Glenview; MesaUrbana.com) is worth it.

I don’t usually go out to the suburbs, but I immediately felt welcome inside this establishment, which has an intriguing decor (in a good way).

As for the cuisine, it’s Mexican fusion, which seems like code for “You’ll going to find some unexpected items”—and you certainly will. Among those items are watermelon beet salad (with a tequila vinaigrette), skate wing, ahi tuna and even farfalle pasta.

First, try one of the margaritas (made with homemade simple syrup); my blueberry-pomegranate drink was absolutely delightful.

The aforementioned salad was delicious. As for the guacamole (served with vegetables), let me say just how great it was: I’m not even a guac fan, and I took some home. The large empanadas were the only (slight) letdown; it was tasty, but the lobster was either spare, or overpowered by other items such as the cream cheese and artichoke hearts.

The farfalle was my favorite—a creamy surprise chock full of huge shrimp. The pechuga de pollo (chicken with onions and orange couscous) was also quite tasty, and the fish tacos (with grouper) were wonderful. And, if you have room to spare, please partake of the capirotada de calabaza (pumpkin bread pudding), a dreamy concoction that’s not too sweet.

Yes, it’s a haul to get there from the city—but you’ll be glad you went there. If you can go to Ravinia, you can certainly travel here.

Note: Restaurant profiles are based on invitations arranged from restaurants and/or firms.