SAVOR Athena

Well, it’s about as close to Greece that one can get without a passport. Athena (212 S. Halsted St.; AthenaRestaurantChicago.com) promises an authentic Greek—and has still managed to provide it for two decades. (Interestingly, there’s nothing planned to mark the spot’s 20th anniversary—a milestone that might have more than one restaurant offering all types of specials.)

One of the items that helps contribute to the air of authenicity is an outdoor area with a retractable roof (making Athena a “convertible Greek restaurant,” according to manager Jimmy); coupled with tables topped with blue-and-white umbrellas and even a waterfall, I felt like I was relaxing on a Greek isle.

Of course, the cuisine helped contribute to the Greek experience as well. (By the way, the next time you’re there, take a look at the forks; although they have four tines each, they’re shaped like Greek tridents.)

With seafood served in abundance in the actual Greece, it shouldn’t be surprising that it’s a staple of Athena’s menu as well. The octopus appetizer (marinated in olive oil and vinegar with chopped carrot and celery) was pretty tasty, while the seafood kabob (salmon, swordfish and shrimp broiled on a skewer with tomatos, onions and green peppers) was cooked pretty solidly, although my dining companion had wished the salmon had looked a little more done.

However, Athena offers more—much more. The char-broiled Greek pork sausage, or loukaniko, was one of my favorite dishes—but it was topped by the Athenian chicken, one of the restaurant’s most popular dishes. The chicken, also char-broiled, comes with lemon and oregano; it really is a heavenly dish. Of course, no Greek meal is complete without saganaki, the goat-cheese dish that’s breaded in flour and usually served flaming in brandy. (We got the tasty cheese, but no flame is allowed outside, as there was apparently an incident some years ago.)

So even if you can’t afford to go to Greece (in terms of finances or time), visit Athena. The spot is a vacation in itself.

Note: Restaurant/bar profiles are based on invitations arranged from restaurants and/or firms.