Why does this week’s column begin with a chemistry lesson? It’s because that’s the concept behind Maillard Tavern (494 N. Milwaukee Ave.; www.maillardtavern.com/), a casual spot from Tony Priolo and Ciro Longobardo, the minds behind Piccolo Sogno (which is across the street from the tavern) and the River North spot Nonnina.
The burgers that employ the Maillard reaction have double four-ounce patties—and the enhanced flavors are immediately noticeable. (Single-patty versions are also available, for reduced prices, and any burger can be substituted with a veggie version.) The Maillard is a savory concoction that’s topped with crispy onions, bacon-and-onion jam, cheddar, pickles and dijon mayo. The Classic is exactly like it sounds (beef with American cheese, pickles, onions, ketchup, lettuce and tomato), but the taste is a bit … elevated. By the way, as if the burger isn’t enough, the sandwiches come with absolutely delicious duck-fat Norwis potato fries.
However, there’s much more on Maillard’s menu. For example, there are specialty sandwiches that include a buttermilk-chicken item that ranks up there with items served at Honey Butter Fried Chicken and the now-shuttered Table 52. There are also the Sloppy Giuseppe (with spiced wild boar ragu and crispy onions) and the Grass Fed Burger for vegetarians. In addition, there are clam chowder and a nice, kicky chili.
But don’t leave after having your burger. Maillard Tavern offers an intriguing array of desserts, including donut sticks, ice-cream sundaes, root-beer floats and more—plus the cocktails are pretty impressive as well.
The only down side? In an age of Caviar, GrubHub and numerous other delivery options, Maillard Tavern (which just opened Dec. 22) doesn’t have any such service available—yet. Priolo told Windy City Times that the option will be revisited in a couple months—which can’t happen soon enough for me.
However, there are two big advantages the tavern has (besides the food, of course): Priolo and Longobardo, engaging men who have amassed quite a following over the years. For them, chemistry with customers is just as important as the science behind this tavern’s tasty burgers.
Chicago Restaurant Week
Chicago Restaurant Week (www.choosechicago.com/restaurants/chicago-restaurant-week) will take place Jan. 26-Feb. 8 .
The 11th annual culinary celebration features special prix fixe menus starting at $22 for brunch or lunch, and $33 and/or $44 for dinner (excluding beverages, tax and gratuity).
More than 370 restaurants will take part in the two-week event, and venues can be sorted by name, cuisine, area or meal. Just a few of the spots include Arami, Barcocina, Nacional 27, Sepia, TWO, Ixcateco Grill, WhirlyBall Chicago, Kendall College, Monteverde, Oceanique, The Gage, Portsmith and bistronomic.
Note: Restaurant profiles/events are based on invitations arranged from restaurants and/or firms.