I probably have walked by the revered River North steakhouse Mastro’s Steakhouse hundreds of times but didn’t actually enter it until recently.
Was it the vaunted reputation? Could it have been the reputed prices of menu items—especially in this day and age? Might it have been some of the well-heeled individuals I’ve seen enter and exit the restaurant?
Honestly, it might have been a combination of those elements but I must tell you something: Mastro’s is a lot more approachable than you may think.
And the aforementioned approachability has been emphasized even more because of the restaurant’s happy hour (termed “social hour” here) that takes place at 4-6 p.m. Seated in the side room instead of the main dining area, I experienced a sound system that played dance music (such as Michael Jackson’s “A Place with No Name”) before a dazzling live pianist/singer covered songs such as Miley Cyrus’ “Flowers.”
And, yes, Mastro’s has a dress code that it enforces—but things are a far cry from even a couple decades ago, when jackets were required as some establishments. Nowadays, you’re fine as long as you’re not wearing athletic apparel—although one patron was wearing a Chicago Bulls T-shirt. (Interestingly, there is also a ban on clothes that emit offensive odors.)
But let’s move on to the cuisine. Regarding the late afternoon offerings, they involve items such as the oysters Rockefeller ($3 each), salt-and-vinegar shoestring fries ($6) and bigeye tuna tartare ($12)—but let me tell you: Those wagyu beef smash sliders ($11 for two) were amazing and they set the tone for the evening, culinarily speaking.
The quality did not diminish at all during the dinner hour. Appetizers include jumbo-lump crab cakes, wagyu beef carpaccio, charred octopus and roasted garlic jumbo black tiger prawn.
The selections we had were prepared perfectly. My guest had a filet with bone-marrow butter—a killer combination. I opted for the double-cut pork chop (that was pure pleasure to consume), and we had (separate) sides of sautéed broccolini and lobster mashed potatoes, with the latter (thankfully) containing abundant meat. However, Mastro’s offers SO much more, including soups, salads and sushi.
One of the dessert items currently available is the lemon-blueberry butter cake that is accompanied by blueberries, cream and vanilla ice cream. It’s one of those items that makes a cheat day more than worthwhile.
And there’s an incredible list of libations, as one might expect. I opted for an invigorating Mastro’s Mojito—but if you want anything from lemonade to the most indulgent wines, all thirsts will be sated.
Now let’s address the elephant in the room: price. While some items are expensive (like the previously mentioned carpaccio, which clocks in at $56), overall, the costs are pretty comparable (or even lower) to what you’ll find at some other steakhouses. The exception may be cuts from Tajima cattle; a minimum of a four-ounce order goes for $240—so save that for a special occasion.
Mastro’s definitely has an upscale vibe, and its cuisine and service are stellar for a name that’s standalone or that has multiple sites. (Mastro’s has almost two dozen locations throughout the country.) But it’s nice to know that there’s an approachability to it—and it’s especially affordable if you visit during the happy, uh, social hour.
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