Just how does a restaurant stand out from the other many fine-dining establishments in Chicago’s West Loop?
For the Italian steakhouse Fioretta (“little flower” in Italian), the main difference involves its stunning architecture and decor. With its sheer drapes and dark woods, the restaurant evokes mid-century glamour, with a touch of the contemporary. (Chicago-based Barker Nestor collaborated with NYC’s Parts & Labor Design to develop Fioretta.)
I personally loved the design-related step into the past—and some of the menu items are that way, too. Tried-and-true dishes such as cacio e pepe and chicken Vesuvio are listed.
However, Fioretta also offers many twists on Italian classics—and nowhere is that more evident than with its starters. The apps involve traditional dessert items that have been made savory, with intriguing results. Instead of ricotta cheese, the cannoli are stuffed with wagyu tartare; and the zeppole is filled with stracciatella cheese and dill while topped with caviar. Both items were absolutely delightful.
Another old-school item that my guest and I tried was the Caesar salad, prepared tableside. It was slightly too cheesy for me but was otherwise great. The chicken Vesuvio was one of the best I’ve had, to be honest; similarly, the black truffle agnolotti—with wild mushrooms and mascarpone cream—was something I could’ve dined on by itself.
And then there was the steak—in this case, a 10-ounce filet mignon. Sublimely tender, it was one of the better main dishes I’ve experienced at a steakhouse this year. (Tomahawk steaks, bone-in ribeyes and New York strips are also available.)
By the way, don’t forget the desserts. While the New York cheesecake and olive-oil cake were hardly groundbreaking, they fit in with the old-school vibe—and were also wonderfully made.
Also, the drinks were pretty appealing. My guest opted for red wine but I went with a cocktail: the Pear of Aces (drinks and their punny names)—a bright concoction containing Patron silver, prickly pear, passionfruit and lemon.
Are there any cons? Well, there’s a noticeable one, especially if you’re on a budget. While the steak wasn’t too bad at $69.99, the small dish of agnolotti was $38.99. (Maybe there should be more pasta and fewer truffles?) And even a single zeppole or Wagyu cannolo is $14.99 although, again, they contain quality ingredients.
However, it’s hard to argue about the price, given the quality of the dishes. And then there’s the rent in the West Loop. But should a half-dozen oysters cost $25.99? That might be something to debate as you slurp the shellfish.
Also, if you’re looking for a place to have an event, you might want to consider The Penthouse—a cool spot on the building’s 13th floor that offers unforgettable and expansive views of the city. Even getting there was different, as we and our guide slipped through a back door and took the elevator up.
Fioretta aims to provide a cool experience, and does. Just be sure to go with a full purse or wallet to this cool spot that exhibits a wonderfully old-school supper-club vibe.
Grade: A-
Note: SAVOR with Andrew visits are pre-arranged, unless otherwise indicated. Note: No reproduction of this column is permitted under any circumstances without the express prior written permission of the columnist.