A recent visit to the Shawn McClain-led eatery, which opened in 2004, did nothing to dispel said appreciation, as I was continuously dazzled by appetizing selections.
Chef de Cuisine David Chapman (an affable, incredibly funny fellow) started things promisingly with an amuse bouche of squash, reduced apple cider and pecans (just in time for fall), followed by hen of the woods mushroom pate, served with raspberry mostarda and shaved watermelon radishes.
I heartily recommend the fermented beet (not beef) tartare, delicately balanced with borscht yogurt, candied pistachios, dill pollen and raspberry powder. And my favorite item was probably the pumpkin pot stickers (with sesame soy dipping sauce), although the apple pierogis weren’t far behind.
Fresh spring rolls were tasty and refreshing; they’re filled with snow peas, pickled shiitake mushrooms, Ruby Streak mustard greens, cucumber, mint and apricot soy sauce. And I have to give props to the poached duck egg dish, which is served with smoked potato puree, parsley and country sourdough.
And please take time for dessert. Although the olive-oil cake was not there (I remembered that from my previous experience there), tantalizing items such as fried apple pie and dark chocolate cake are available.
To make sure you have a filling experience (physically and otherwise), I’d recommend getting at least three dishes apiece. That way, you can have a more well-rounded experience at this incredible space.