If you ever find yourself on the 2500 block of North Clark Street with hunger in your bones, look no further than Briny Swine Smokehouse & Oyster Bar.
By Andrew Pirrotta
Taking up an entire corner of one of Chicago’s most popular streets is this heavenly spot that specializes in Southern fare—particularly, barbecue, fine cocktails and oysters. (Briny Swine’s only other location in the country is in Edisto Island, South Carolina.) The space is expansive, with one side featuring a band that played everything from jazz to Sugar Ray; we were on the other side, where a gigantic, open window welcomed in a cool breeze.
Shortly after being seated, I was served a platter of a dozen oysters, with types spanning the East and West coasts. The East Coast oysters were smaller, brinier and deliciously salty, while their West Coast counterparts had a more mellow and understated sweetness. All were thoroughly enjoyed while paired with an expertly made whiskey sour, complete with genuine egg whites—as all whiskey sours should be.
For our appetizers, we selected hush puppies filled with fresh blue crab; and fried green tomatoes. Both were perfectly breaded and fried. They were crunchy and flaky on the outside without having excessive oil. The crab was sweet and the crunchy outside of the hush puppy gave way to a warm and decadent center, as the app was paired with a tangy aioli. Also, the pimento cheese served atop the thick, juicy green tomato made for a perfect bite.
I opted for the brisket sandwich as my main, accompanied by the blue cheese and bacon coleslaw, along with a side of crescent-shaped French fries. My dining companion opted for the pulled pork platter with sides of collard greens and macaroni and cheese. Dear reader, I make no bones about this: That was some of the greatest brisket I have had in my entire life. Now, I will admit to being a Yankee. So, for those of you well versed in the Southern barbecue scene, I can openly say I do not have your experience, but Chicago has more than just a couple of barbecue joints, and I’ve had brisket from quite a few. The way this melted in my mouth—the perfect amalgamation of fat, flavor and smoke—is something I will remember for a very long time. In fact, I’m salivating as I type these words. The bun was buttery and soft, the pickles tangy and sweet, and the mustard-based barbecue sauce had a sublime punch that did not overwhelm the meat.
In addition, we were served a surprise delivery platter of Briny Swine’s smoked turkey and brisket slabs. The turkey was juicy and succulent, and had a killer black pepper bark to it. The brisket was so sinfully delicious that my priest ordered me to perform 10 Hail Marys. My companion thoroughly enjoyed his pulled pork, surprised somewhat by its level of spice; the sides did not disappoint, either. Even the French fries, which I was told were not made in-house, were delectable. They were more of a twisted potato, seasoned to perfection. Once you get past the crunch of the exterior you are greeted with a fluffy potato interior.
Finally, our dessert course consisted of banana pudding, peach cobbler and the restaurant’s signature Coca-Cola cake. The banana pudding was smooth, sweet and perfectly creamy. The peach cobbler was fresh and flavorful. The crust baked to perfection, and the vanilla ice cream could have been a dessert all on its own. That brings us to the Coca-Cola chocolate cake. Once again, my priest was in a frenzy when I described its sinful decadence. I’m almost certain Saint Peter fainted at the pearly gates when I detailed its chocolatey goodness.
I cannot wait to revisit Briny Swine.