The opening of the new Old Town restaurant Gavroche was a full-circle moment for restaurateur Jason Chan, as the intimate, 32-seat spot is in the same neighborhood where Chan resided decades ago.
Gavroche (which translates into English as “mischievous child”) also takes Chan back to a place that employs French techniques (even if it turns them on their heads), after heading restaurants such as Butter and Juno. He first apprenticed to be a chef at L’ Escargot in the famed Allerton Hotel on Michigan Avenue in 1984, and later transitioned to a front of house role in 1986.
During a recent exclusive media gathering at Gavroche, Chan described the venue as an “anti-bistro microrestaurant”—but he also called it his “magnum opus.”
Based on what we dined on that evening, this place is a masterpiece, indeed.
Things started impressively with the oeuf aperge—an entrancing mix of Nicolas Farm egg, polanco caviar (produced in Uruguay), pickled green garlic, charred corn, grapes, Brillat-Savarin crème served in a shell stenciled with the restaurant’s name.
To be honest, I thought the meal would flag at some point. However, this meal, helmed by Executive Chef Mitchell Acuña, was pretty close to perfect.
We were treated to dishes such as escargots a la Bourgogne, with the gastropods served in a mix of garlic butter and preserved shallots. A dry-aged beef tartare was served with sunchoke espuma, crispy black kale, egg yolk and preserved mustard seeds. The soupe a L’oignon Brûlée featured a rich veal onion broth topped with an island composed of Gruyère Mornay cheese and chervil, among other things. The turbot au four beurre blanc was sautéed in a melange of smoked crème fraîche beurre blanc, charred corn, melted leeks and sorrel, topped with polanco caviar. A tender koji dry-aged half poussin rouge was served with summer black truffle, chanterelles, baby turnips, Yukon potato pave and black truffle jus. And this spot might have the best gnocchi I’ve ever had with its gnocchi Parisian, accompanied by lemon black truffle cream, fine herbs, crispy garlic and bourbon barrel-smoked trout roe.
There are other items to try as well, including the King Louis—a brisket short rib burger with Gruyère, pickled red onion, arugula and black truffle aioli that’s on a toasted brioche and served with beef fat pommes frites; the hamachi “Niçoise,” presented with egg yolk confit, seasonal vegetables, petite lettuce, pickled pearl onion and white anchovy vinaigrette; and a foie gras duo that comes with black plum, celery, chartreuse, black lime and toasted brioche. (I’ll have to return to at least try that burger.)
And if you manage to make it through the enticing appetizers and entrees, dessert options include a creme brûlée duet, chocolate mousse and opera cake.
There are all types of restaurants along the strip of North Wells Street where Gavroche is located. However, Chan’s restaurant brings an air of class that’s intimate—and inimitable.
Note: SAVOR visits are pre-arranged, unless otherwise indicated.
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