For years, Matteo Lane has entertained audiences with his wit and insight, whether it’s through YouTube, podcasts (such as I Never Liked You, with Nick Smith) or one of his several comedy specials, including the upcoming Hulu event The Al Dente Special. (Growing up in the suburb of Arlington Heights, the queer performer honed his comedic skills through shows in Chicago before heading to New York.)
Now, Lane has another title: cookbook author. With Your Pasta Sucks: A “Cookbook” (which will be out April 1), Lane showcases his trademark humor (with chapter titles like “How to Cook Pasta like an Italian, Irish, Mexican Homosexual”) but also displays some serious knowledge about pasta and other dishes, informed by his travels and family. He recently talked with Windy City Times about Chicago, comedy and, of course, cooking.
NOTE: This conversation was edited for clarity and length.
Windy City Times: We have something in common: I live in Chicago and you’re a local guy.
Matteo Lane: Yeah—I’m from Chicago. I grew up in Arlington Heights and when I turned 18, I moved into the city. At that point, I had basically been living with my friends at Pulaski and Belmont. After living in Chicago for a while, I moved to New York City.
WCT: What do you remember most about Chicago? Of course, it’s changed in a lot of ways.
ML: I feel like I could give you a giant answer. For example, I remember the corner of Clark and Addison, across from Wrigley Field, it was just a parking lot with a Taco Bell and maybe an Irish pub, and that was that. Then I came back after [the Cubs] won the World Series and it was, like, Woodfield Mall—apartments, hotels and restaurants. [Interview laughs.] I’m asking, “What the hell is this?” But I didn’t hang out off the Red Line until I was 21 and old enough to go to bars; I was hanging out in Jefferson Park and places like the Irish American Heritage Center because that’s where all my friends lived in the city. My friends went to Lane Tech and Von Steuben high schools so that’s where we hung out.
WCT: It was interesting when you said “an Irish bar” because there are about 3,000 in this city.
ML: I’ll never forget my friend Kerry Constanzo. We were driving and it was on Clark and Addison. There was a sign reading “a new Irish pub coming.” And she said, “Yeah—that’s just what this city needs: an Irish pub.”
WCT: Now let’s talk about the cookbook—a bold title and even bolder cover. How did you settle on that title?
ML: Well, I originally wanted to call the book I’m Not an Author because Fran Lebowitz always bitches about how everyone’s an author now. I didn’t want to come out and pretend, like, I’m an author. And I’m also not a chef. I’m not fuckin’ Giada De Laurentiis and I didn’t study in Paris at the Cordon Bleu. My publisher didn’t like my original idea and I thought, “You know what? If people are in the cooking section and they’re looking to cook Italian food, what would catch their attention: A book about Tuscan and ancient recipes—or a book insulting you that says your pasta sucks?”
I think that would get your attention because, one, it’s joking; and, two, if you’re looking in the Italian section, maybe your pasta does suck and you’re looking for help. Also, it implies that it’s a comedy book as well. There’s a series of short essays about living in Rome, my family and friends; the rest of it is recipes I’ve collected from my mom and nonna, and from living in Italy.
WCT: Regarding pasta, what do you think is the number-one mistake people make when cooking it?
ML: Not properly salting their water and not cooking their pasta al dente… Pasta is supposed to be treated like you’d treat a steak; you don’t overcook it. You don’t cook a steak until it looks like a hockey puck; you want medium, medium-rare or rare. You want pasta so that it has a nice texture to it. As for dry and fresh pasta, neither one is better; they’re just for different types of sauces; with carbonara, you’d never use fresh pasta. I think some people think, “I’ll use any kind of pasta and any kind of sauce.” No—there’s a method to the madness.
WCT: I find all of this very interesting because I really don’t cook. People ask me what I make and I say, “Reservations.” [Lane laughs.] But maybe this cookbook will get me to start.
ML: I know that cooking can be intimidating for a lot of people. For some, it starts to feel like homework. But I learned to cook from my mom when I was 3. She would line me, my brother and sister like we were little ducklings, and we cooked every single night. She made it fun and interesting—and we created memories. It’s about history and family. I think cooking—more than a homework assignment to please somebody—is about an enjoyable experience for yourself and other people.
WBEZ Chicago and Exile in Bookville will present “An Evening with Matteo Lane,” which will take place Wed., April 9, at 7:30 p.m. at the Athenaeum Center. Tickets to this event include a copy of Your Pasta Sucks. RSVP at this link.