Upon walking in El’s Kitchen & Bar (1450 W. Webster Ave.; www.elskitch.com and 773-248-5210) for a Saturday brunch, bartender/server Ellen Haran welcomed me, adding that the restaurant specializes “in rock ‘n’ roll barbecue.”
Well, she certainly didn’t lie about the music or the cuisine. Regarding the former, El’s walls are plastered with posters and album covers of musical acts ranging from the Rolling Stones to George Michael. I mean, this place (which includes a jukebox) has to be seen to be believed. (Hopefully, the accompanying images provide some sense of what El’s has to offer.) In addition, this place took me back to my adolescence, thanks to a sit-down Pac-Man console in the middle of the eatery; however, Haran said that it actually contains 400 (yes, 400) old-school games such as Centipede and Galaga.
As for the food, this is not the place to be if you’re afraid of stick-to-your-ribs fare. (However, first let me interject that El’s offers bottomless Bloody Marys and mimosas for $15.) Haran and fellow server/bartender Dan Allen regaled us with various dishes—with most containing brisket.
Brisket fries (with BBQ sauce) were amazing—tangy and not too spicy. However, as good as those were, I fell in love with the brisket eggs Benedict, a concoction consisting of poached eggs over brisket on toast, drizzled with hollandaise sauce and served with a side of potatoes. That dish alone will keep you coming back. (Other brunch options range from sandwiches to omelets to pancakes.)
We also tried what was basically a farm on a plate: smoked chicken, brisket, ribs and fried chicken. The food was delicious while contributing to the eatery’s retro vibe. Also, if you possibly have room for dessert after trying an entrée, there are items such as homemade cheesecake and chocolate brownies (which were served very warm and soft).
By the way, don’t be alarmed if you’re the only ones in the restaurant. This happened to my friend and me on a recent Saturday afternoon—and then I realized that El’s is across the street from the Regal Webster Place 11 movie theater. Before I knew it, the place was filling up—and the servers were smiling from ear to ear, starting/continuing conversations with all the patrons.