DISH: Bar Pastoral; Stetsons

Looking for a place with an intimate ambiance, knowledgeable staff and decadent food? Well, then, the Lake View bistro Bar Pastoral (2947 N. Broadway; www.pastoralartisan.com/bar-pastoral) might just be your spot.

And, yes, it’s connected—literally—to the decade-old flagship location of PastoralArtisan Cheese, Bread & Wine. (Bar Pastoral is marking its own second anniversary with everything from a $99 premium wine dinner on Nov. 11 to a variety of gift collections.)

Chef (and Art Institute of America grad) Brooks Hart definitely knows what he’s doing, and the staff can expertly steer patrons though myriad wine/cheese pairings.

Cheese aficionados will find a wide variety of selections, under categories such as soft, washed rind, semi-firm/firm and blue. My dining companion and I were (gratefully) advised to try the Lincolnshire, Manchester and Bohemian blue, which were all served with Dodge City cured pork. Each cheese was distinctly different—and, yet, all appealed to our palates. Of course, being the carnivore I am, I also appreciated the Dodge City. (The restaurant also has housemade charcuterie—chicken liver mousse and country pate—as well as attractive bar bites such as mini-grilled-cheese sandwiches.

As for dinner items, the listing is relatively short; however, the variety is wide, with offerings ranging from cheddar ale soup to pan-roasted quail. My friend had the butter-roasted halibut while I opted for braised pork shoulder. While the halibut was tasty, the pork was head and shoulders (pun intended) above, with the cheese, polenta and peaches accenting—but not overwhelming—the star attraction.

Of course, he had to conclude with dessert—but it was a downer. My friend and I both looked forward to the brownie with five-year Gouda. Although it was delicious, it was hard to eat—as we agreed it was very crumbly. Next time, I’ll aim for the seasonal shortcake or the panna cotta.

However, don’t let the brownie keep you from Bar Pastoral. The pros far outweigh the cons.

Have you heard of Stetsons Modern Steak + Sushi (151 E. Wacker Dr.; www.chicagoregency.hyatt.com/en/hotel/dining/stetsonsmodernsteakandsushi.html)? Most people I asked hadn’t—even though it’s been part of the Loop’s Hyatt Regency, in one incarnation or another, for more than three decades.

This is a shame, because current chef Kostas Chaidaropoulos really has put together a compelling menu.

General Manager Pete Karczewski informed me of a few things about the place that seemed intriguing. For example, Stetsons was part of a huge hotel renovation two years ago that incorporated changes physical (more windows, opening up the kitchen) and culinary (the addition of sushi).

And speaking of sushi, Chaidaropoulos started things off swimmingly with a bento box and soup with dashi stock. The latter, especially, had to be experimented to believe, as the broth was brewed tableside in a double-chambered item that infused the liquid with lemongrass and other ingredients.

From there, offerings included salmon tartare with quail egg, and caprese salad. The beef Wellington, however, was fit for a king (or queen), as the filet was cooked perfectly, along with the paté and puff pastry. A foie gras-and-chestnut sauce only heightened the experience.

Desserts (which the server showed on an iPad—a sign of the times) looked sumptuous. The passionfruit verrine with chocolate streusel was very good, as was the Nutella cake (although it could’ve used a tad more of the main ingredient).

The cocktails sound interesting (with many having Chicago-linked names). I tried the Windy City, an absolutely delicious concoction consisting of RumChata, pineapple juice, vanilla bean paste, cinnamon, nutmeg and cherry bitters. However, keep in mind that drinks are $13-$16 each.

The Hyatt Regency has more than 2,000 rooms—practically ensuring a constant stream of patrons at Stetsons. However, tourists should not be the only ones entitled to the delightful fare this place offers.